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Thread: 620i won't start; acts like it's in gear; relay clicks when I try to crank the engine

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    620i won't start; acts like it's in gear; relay clicks when I try to crank the engine

    Right now, the Gator acts like it's in gear and won't turn over because of that. I replaced the safety/neutral switch on the transmission. The battery cables are snug. Every fuse is working. The battery is charged. Then I replaced the relay furthest to the left under the hood that runs to the starter solenoid, and that was good. I compared it to another Gator that my business has, and the notable difference that I noticed is that regardless of the relay that's hooked up, you can feel and hear a click coming from the relay. What could that mean?

    I called the JD dealer and when I asked about a possible bad starter, the mechanic said that he has only ever replaced a couple starters in the 620i, and that's not likely the culprit. Any other ideas to check out?

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    Member jergeod's Avatar
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    Unplug the wire going to the starter solinoid and hook a multimeter in between if you get juice then look at the solinoid or starter.
    2005 HPX, My add ons ( w/OPS, XUV wheels,1 1/2 inch spacers front & rear, at489 tires, 3000 lb winch, body armor spray in bedliner,self made one peice windshield & roof, homemade snowplow.

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    Member JimmyMac's Avatar
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    I agree with jergeod. The small wire at the starter, remove it, connect a meter to it, when attempting to start, you should have battery voltage at that wire. If you do, the starter needs to come out and be looked at or replaced. If there is low or no voltage, inspect/test the relay and its ground..

    I have removed my starter several times for the same problem, it has been corrosion from being submerged every weekend. The exact symptom. Relay clicks and nothing else. The starter or solenoid was bound/locked up. I cleaned it and reinstalled it, only to last a couple of months, then I clean it again. After two years, I just broke down and bought one. JD want's like $400 for the Nippon-Denso OEM unit. Auto-Zone can get a Delco-Remy for $144 and another, I can't remember the name, but it's around $78. The $144 unit was right for me, so it's in there and happy.

    Gook Luck!

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    Member jergeod's Avatar
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    Also check EBAY sometimes you can get a real deal on one there other times it can be a rip so you need to check your prices.
    2005 HPX, My add ons ( w/OPS, XUV wheels,1 1/2 inch spacers front & rear, at489 tires, 3000 lb winch, body armor spray in bedliner,self made one peice windshield & roof, homemade snowplow.

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    Thanks for the very detailed description JimmyMac. I will be working tomorrow and will get the chance to check out the possible corrosion or if it's just a bad solenoid, aka a ton cheaper. The business I work for has nine 620 XUVs, so my plan (if taking the starter out isn't too laborious) is to swap different parts between Gators and isolate the problem.

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    Member JimmyMac's Avatar
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    Hey roboman, just a heads up, if you have a steel skid plate under the engine, remove it first. Its much easier without it in the way, but can be done. Removing the starter is pretty quick. First disconnect the battery , negative first, then ease under the driver side and remove the small wire off the starter, a female spade connector, then I think it's a 13mm or 14mm nut off the soleniod to release the battery cable.

    Then its a 13mm I think for the starter bolts. I recommend having an assortment of extensions (to find the right one) using 1/4 drive ratchet and 13mm deep socket. Try a couple different combinations to get to the difficult bolt. (There is limited space due to the clutch housing. I feed the socket and extension through the passenger side then the ratchet through the driver side, connect them and hit it.)

    The other is the easy one, can get to it from the bottom, top or passenger side. They come out easy but are a little more testy during installation.

    Personally, I think it's a terrible design. The starter has holes and the engine case has the threads. This means you need to be EXTRA careful installing the bolts. Start them by HAND FIRST, this verifies they are not cross threaded so you can use the rachet. A torque wrench should be applied but, its an itty bitty steel bolt going into an aluminum case, so be gentle if you don't have one. The design would be so much better if the starter had the threads and the case had the holes. If the starter was cross-threaded, over tightened, or a fastener was broken, you can just replace the starter or remove it to to repair. The starter bolts would go in from the passenger side, allowing a rapid starter change. Its just makes sence to me, the case is difficult and more expensive to repair then a starter.

    Be careful and good luck!
    JMac

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    a normal voltmeter may still read battary voltage and your solinoid could still be bad, its known as residual voltage, your meter draws no load, has no amperage or current carrying capability, i.e., a dead battary can read 12 volts on a digital meter but will go to zero when you draw a load, so use one of those test lights as the bulb will draw current and you will see it light, 'vs seeing a digital reading, indicating the current is going through the contacts or jump your relay, large post to large post which will by pass the copper plate and plunger inside the solinoid that will eventually wear out from normal corriosion associated with disimalar metal's,. I worked at the factory that built these solinoids, if the light comes on, your starter or wiring to it is the culprit, you can also run a heavy 10 ga. gator clip from 12+ on the bat directly to the side of the solinoid that goes to the starter to see if the starter turns.

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