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  1. #1
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    clutch removal

    I have a 2002 4x2 gator and want to remove the primary clutch.Is the clutch pressed on the motor shaft? I took the bolt out and pryed some to no avail.

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    It is a pressed fit, There is a special puller bolt that screws in to clutch for removal.

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    do you know the specs on the puller bolt?

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    No, sorry i don't, I would assume it is metric threads.

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    The bolt i took out is about 5"long and has a 3/8-24 thread.I can only see threads in the motor shaft.How could a puller work if there's no thread in the clutch itself?
    Got me confused

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    Feel inside the clutch and you will find the threads, The puller bolt is threaded on the outside which screws into the clutch and is tapered down on the end which pushes against the crankshaft to remove clutch.

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    You can easily duplicate the JDG813-1 removal tool. Cut a 3" length of 1/2" un-threaded steel rod. Square off and de-burr the ends, but don't round them over. After removing the mounting bolt & washer from the end of the primary clutch, insert the rod into the crankshaft hole. Follow it up with a 9/16"-18 X 3" SAE bolt (No it is not metric). Hand-tighten it until it contacts the 3" rod. You can then either tighten the bolt manually, or, as the tech manual recommends, carefully use an impact wrench. When run far enough in, the whole clutch assembly will pop free of the tapered shaft.
    When using an impact wrench (which is by far the easiest way to separate the clutch from the crankshaft), be very careful not to run the bolt in so far that the un-threaded portion runs past the entry to the hole in the crankshaft. If this happens, you'll clobber the female threads at the end.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Johnehowe For This Useful Post:

    apriordan (08-08-2015),GATORPANTS (02-08-2016)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnehowe View Post
    You can easily duplicate the JDG813-1 removal tool. Cut a 3" length of 1/2" un-threaded steel rod. Square off and de-burr the ends, but don't round them over. After removing the mounting bolt & washer from the end of the primary clutch, insert the rod into the crankshaft hole. Follow it up with a 9/16"-18 X 3" SAE bolt (No it is not metric). Hand-tighten it until it contacts the 3" rod. You can then either tighten the bolt manually, or, as the tech manual recommends, carefully use an impact wrench. When run far enough in, the whole clutch assembly will pop free of the tapered shaft.
    When using an impact wrench (which is by far the easiest way to separate the clutch from the crankshaft), be very careful not to run the bolt in so far that the un-threaded portion runs past the entry to the hole in the crankshaft. If this happens, you'll clobber the female threads at the end.
    I actually tried this about 5 weeks ago,but instead of a bolt,i borrowed a tap from work.Bad mistake,when i put my bad boy earthquake gun on it,it snapped the tap inside the clutch. I should have used a less hardend bolt.I have been driving it without the mounting bolt ever since,and still has not worked loose.Now,i will have to fabricate a tool to try and remove the tap.(a regular tap remover tool does not work,this was a 3 flute tap)Them clutches must be on TIGHT.

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    Johnehowe- This is a wonderful shortcut- thanks for adding. This worked like a champ on my 2006 HPX diesel. However, my half inch rod seemed a little tight so I put it in my drill press and sanded off maybe 1/100 of and inch. Also had a pretty hard time finding a 9/16 X18 bolt. (Note to people wanting to do this: Auto part stores, specialty bolt places might have this, hardware stores don't.)
    My local JD dealer (Ag-Power in McKinney Texas) would not loan me their tool and seemed uniterested in this problem. The guy I talked to couldnt even check to see if they had a 9/16 X 18 bolt.

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    Exclamation Fml

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnehowe View Post
    You can easily duplicate the JDG813-1 removal tool. Cut a 3" length of 1/2" un-threaded steel rod. Square off and de-burr the ends, but don't round them over. After removing the mounting bolt & washer from the end of the primary clutch, insert the rod into the crankshaft hole. Follow it up with a 9/16"-18 X 3" SAE bolt (No it is not metric). Hand-tighten it until it contacts the 3" rod. You can then either tighten the bolt manually, or, as the tech manual recommends, carefully use an impact wrench. When run far enough in, the whole clutch assembly will pop free of the tapered shaft.
    When using an impact wrench (which is by far the easiest way to separate the clutch from the crankshaft), be very careful not to run the bolt in so far that the un-threaded portion runs past the entry to the hole in the crankshaft. If this happens, you'll clobber the female threads at the end.
    So, not to say that this isn't a viable solution for some but I would consider spending the $40 for the John Deere tool after the ordeal that I have been through with my clutch. First off, finding a 9/16"-18x3" SAE bolt took half a day to find so if your time is worth anything you may want to take this into consideration. From there the saga continues. I used an impact wrench to attempt pulling the clutch. I was having problems with the clutch turning as the bolt was turning so I stuck a bar in the clutch to keep it from turning which I though was working until I noticed that I was only stopping the outside portion of the clutch from turning. The inner half was still turning which resulted in unthreading the outer portion of the clutch from the inner portion. Once this happened, I found my broken spring and though I was in good shape.... until I tried to get the unthreaded rod out of the remaining portion of the clutch that was still on the crank shaft. I thought a magnet would be the magic.... nope. At this point I have half the clutch stuck on the shaft and a piece of half inch steel rod stuck inside it. I have tried heat, lubrication as well as brute strength and ignorance to get the remaining portion of the clutch off to no avail. My best guess is that the steel has mushroomed inside the clutch and may have also possibly threaded itself inside the crankshaft enough that it is not allowing the clutch to pop off. I'm not sure what my next step is but I figured that I would throw out a warning to those that are considering this. I'm sure that your thought process is the same as mine: Why buy a $40 tool that you are going to use once? But at this point I would gladly have spent the $40 and be onto another project. Not to mention that I have also ordered a $160 tap and die kit as well as a $30 left hand thread drill bit set in hopes that I might be able to run a drill bit into the end of the steel rod backwards and have to turn itself out or tap the end if it and stick a bolt into it to pull it out that way.

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