Very Hot Voltage Regulator.

[JimmyMac]

Thanks denisf...congrats! Your gonna love it!

Rich,
Good point.. I guess It's hard to think about the 620's after being exposed to the 825's. What an amazing piece of equipment. I defanatly have one on the list...

The 620i is a Kawasaki Mule engine. So is the charging system. The CVT set up, however, is not. I think it's all JD. I just replaced my entire CVT set up, and all came in JD boxes. I have a complete step by step "how to" with detailed pictures that I took while replacing it.. Even how to make the clutch puller. I'm going to build a thread on that as soon as we get home from the keys.. I haven't researched the engine on the 825 but you are right, they are different....

Thanks so much for the replys. I truly appreciate the help.

[JimmyMac]

Update. Thanks to the folks at Everglades Farm Equipment, who were nice enough to talk even on their lunch break, our voltage regulators are supposed to run rather hot. To hot to keep your hand on hot. Yup that hot. Was on out way back from the Keys and stopped for fuel passing their dealership. Decided to stop and ask a tech. Our local JD focuses on construction, so an AGG was a nice visit. They had several gators too. Nice people, very helpful. Thanks again to all that tried and especially the folks at Everglades Farm Equipment!

[r1cobb]

UPDATE to Post--Done: "I am in the middle of debuging my Gator 620i as well. Simular traits as well: Gator stops running on a good battery. Circling the wagon on several post and a discussion with a ex-Deer mechanic.

i have called my local Deere shop trying to identify the AC voltage expected from the charging coil in the engine. It was almost like they did not understand the question and kept giving the output voltage from the regulator. You post gives me a value and range to compare. (i have to check my unit first)

There are three wires leaving the regulator: Red, Black, and Yellow. Hear is my guess ( i will check this weekend). The red is positive voltage for charging. The Black for ground. The yellow is the comparative voltage used by the regulator: it uses the voltage in determining how much to output. [From: https://www.johndeeregatorforum.com/f...th-alternator]

From the discussion with the mechanic, he first comment was to check for a short in the wiring bundle from the cab to the regulator. i am going to guess it is related to tracing the yellow wire. if the comparative voltage is gone, the regulator will try to over drive unless it pick up a short value that tells it not to output.

History: i have replaced the regulator within the last 4 months, and on a larger battery replaced a couple of months ago.

i may use a third option: add the optional alternator (it may bypass some of the wiring problems)."

Results of Troubleshooting: Traced the yellow wire through the wiring bundle to a small dead end near the battery bundle.

Then jumped to the fuse panel: removed the panel and cleaned the trash from the back of the panel on the firewall (it was collecting a small bird nest). Cleaned the small contact crust from the fuses with a Dremel tool brush. I also applied Kroel lubricant to the contact areas.

Than jumped to the Ignition Switch: Found the yellow wire! Performed an ohm check to the plug on the regulator. The plug and switch had a lot of hard dielectric grease that had harden. Cleaned with Dremel tool and reassembled (applied Kroel)

With the cleaning, the unit is working ok. My has been charging and running fine. I got the CD service manual a week after locating the bad contacts and the yellow wire is can be traced to power on connection on the back of the switch and supplies to power to other items as well. With most manufactures and electrical tech, you should reapply the dielectric grease to provide an environmental seal to the contacts.