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Thread: Dual Battery Kit or???

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    Dual Battery Kit or???

    Hi Everyone, Looking for some ideas, I have a RSX 850i and have added Power Steering, Heater, had the Winch and now have added a 30 inch Pro Sirus Light Bar and some small lights for the rear. If I run any of these options my battery light comes on at idle but goes away at higher rpm's. If I run the light bar and heater I can feel the inside fuse on the passenger side get real hot. If I put a jumper box on the factory battery the problem isn't as bad (battery light) but still feel the heat in the fuse box. I have seen mixed reviews on John Deeres dual battery kit with the isolater getting also real hot. Any Ideas? Thanks, Gary

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    If your fuse box is getting hot there is a voltage drop caused by resistance in the circuit in this area. This could come from too small of wire gauge inside the fuse box (I never seen one), the spade connections the fuse plugs are too loose or corrosion causing an increase in resistance. This increase in resistance will cause heat. Before replacing anything, I'd consider eliminating the resistance or voltage drop occurring at the fuse box. If you could bypass the fuse box with a new larger wire and fuse thus eliminating any voltage drop, it would be interesting to see if the charging light stays off.
    2012 JD855D OPS Black Poly Roof, Deluxe Cargo Box, Front and Rear Protection, Power Lift, Front Hood Rack, Rear Screen (homemade), 800 Watt Inverter, Front and Rear 4" square 27 watt LED lights, Bad Lands 2500lb Winch installed in bed, Front and Rear CV Guards

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    Quote Originally Posted by 200mph View Post
    If your fuse box is getting hot there is a voltage drop caused by resistance in the circuit in this area. This could come from too small of wire gauge inside the fuse box (I never seen one), the spade connections the fuse plugs are too loose or corrosion causing an increase in resistance. This increase in resistance will cause heat. Before replacing anything, I'd consider eliminating the resistance or voltage drop occurring at the fuse box. If you could bypass the fuse box with a new larger wire and fuse thus eliminating any voltage drop, it would be interesting to see if the charging light stays off.
    It almost seems accessory related, I only have a problem when I have the heater and the light bar and factory headlights are on. And the battery light only comes on at low idle and then goes away with more rpm's. As I turn the accessory's off one by one the fuse gets cooler and the battery light goes off. I will definitely clean the connections as you say. Hope I am not creating my own problem? My wife say's I'm good at that! Thanks for your response!!!

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    Yes it is accessory related. The more load (amps) you put on electrical system the greater the current draw and greater the heat if there is any resistance. No resistance at the fuse block and it will not heat up. A number of people have experienced issues with the fuse blocks.

    I don't have access to the alternator output at idle and other RPMS, so cannot verify 100% that it isn't being exceeded. The reason I suggested fixing the fuse block 1st is this is acting as another accessory and consuming unnecessary power. How much I cannot guess, but it should not be warm or hot. Do you have a voltmeter to take some measurements?

    The electrical load being consumed by your accessories should be easy to calculate based on their claimed wattage. Do you know how many watts the heater, light bar, etc are rated for consume?

    Putting a second battery will not prevent the battery light from coming on.
    2012 JD855D OPS Black Poly Roof, Deluxe Cargo Box, Front and Rear Protection, Power Lift, Front Hood Rack, Rear Screen (homemade), 800 Watt Inverter, Front and Rear 4" square 27 watt LED lights, Bad Lands 2500lb Winch installed in bed, Front and Rear CV Guards

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    Haven't had time to work on it but I did find a loose ground (finger tight) on what I believe to be the voltage regulator??? There were 3 wires on it yellow, black, and blue. Thanks again for your help!

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